MorganExp

Troubleshooting Guide for Classic Cars

A step-by-step chart to help diagnose the cause of nearly any problem you might have with your LBC, and the corresponding solution.
Written by – 2006-04-02
How-To Library > Troubleshooting Section

First published in "Abingdon Classics" November, 1981
This was originally written for MGs, but provides a basic plan of attack to for problems with almost any classic car.
Always consult your vehicle's service manual and observe proper safety precautions when servicing your vehicle.

Jump to:   Brakes | Engine | Steering | Fuel | Electrical | Clutch | Cooling


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Brakes
Problem Solvers		 Brake Troubleshooting Illustration
PROBLEM CAUSE CURE
Excessive brake pedal travel
  1. Brakes need adjusting or replacement.
  2. Air in system.
  3. Faulty master cylinder.
  4. Leaking or contaminated fluid.
  1. Adjust or renew brake shoes.
  2. Bleed hydraulic system.
  3. Fit new master cylinder.
  4. Bleed hydraulic system.
Brake fade
  1. Incorrect pad or lining material.
  2. Old or contaminated fluid.
  3. Excessive use of brakes or car overloaded.
  1. Fit new pads or shoes.
  2. Renew brake fluid.
  3. Check vehicle load.
Spongy brake pedal
  1. Air in hydraulic system.
  2. Shoes badly lined or distored.
  3. Faulty hydraulic cylinder.
  1. Bleed system.
  2. Fit new pads or shoes.
  3. Check hydraulic circuit.
Brake pedal too hard
  1. Seized wheel cylinder or caliper piston
  2. Glazed fiction material
  1. Replace seized component.
  2. Fit new shoes/pads.
Brake pedal requires pumping or loss of pedal
  1. Brakes wrongly adjusted
  2. Air in hydraulic system
  3. Fluid leak from component or brake pipe
  4. Loss of fluid from master cylinder
  1. Adjust brakes.
  2. Bleed system.
  3. Check hydraulic circuit and replace parts as necessary.
  4. Check hydraulic circuit and replace parts as necessary.
Brakes grab when applied
  1. Contaminated friction material
  2. Wrong linings fitted
  3. Scored drums or discs
  1. Replace (don't clean) pads or shoes.
  2. Replace (don't clean) pads or shoes.
  3. Fit new drum or disc.
Brake squeal
  1. Worn retaining pins (disc)
  2. Faulty damping shims or shoe retaining clips
  3. Dust in drum
  4. Loose backplate or caliper
  1. Fit new pins.
  2. Fit new shims or clips.
  3. Remove dust from drums and shoe.
  4. Tighten caliper or backplate.
Brake shudder
  1. No clearance at master cylinder operating rod
  2. Shoe tension springs either broken or week
  3. Wheel cylinder or caliper piston seizing
  4. Faulty self-adjusting mechanism
  5. Seized handbrake mechanism
  1. Adjust rod if possible.
  2. Replace tension springs
  3. Fit new caliper or cylinder.
  4. Check mechanism.
  5. Check handbrake operation.
Brake pull to one side only
  1. Contaminated friction material on one side (grease, oil or brake fluid
  2. Loose backplate
  3. Seized cylinder
  4. Faulty suspension or steering
  1. Replace shoes/pads all around.
  2. Tighten backplate.
  3. Replace seized cylinder.
  4. Check suspension and steering.
Handbrake ineffective
  1. Worn rear shoes or pads
  2. Brakes require adjusting
  3. Faulty handbrake linkage
  4. Cable or rod requires adjustment
  1. Fit new pads/shoes.
  2. Adjust brakes
  3. Check linkage and operating mechanism.
  4. Adjust cable or rod.
Servo (where fitted) late in operation
  1. blocked filter
  2. Bad vacuum sealing or restricted air inlet
  1. Clean or replace filter.
  2. Tighted vacuum hose connections and check hoses
Loss of servo action when braking heavily
  1. Air leak in servo-vacuum low
  1. Either overhaul servo or replace
Loss of fluid (servo only)
  1. Seal failure
  2. Scored servo bores
  3. Damaged or corroded fluid pipes
  1. Replace or overhaul servo.
  2. Replace or overhaul servo.
  3. Inspect and fit new pipes.


Jump to:   Brakes | Engine | Steering | Fuel | Electrical | Clutch | Cooling



Engine
Problem Solvers		 Engine Troubleshooting Illustration
PROBLEM CAUSE CURE
Lack of compression
  1. Faulty valve seat, excessive wear in stem or guide.
  2. Faulty head gasket.
  3. Worn pistons, rings and bores.
  1. Recut seat and valve, fit new guide and valve.
  2. Fit new gasket or reface head.
  3. Either fit new rings, or if badly worn, fit new pistions and rings, and have block rebored.
Piston slap
  1. As #3 above.
  1. As #3 above.
Smoke from exhaust
Lack of power
  1. As above.
  2. Blocked crankcase breather.
  1. As above.
  2. Check breathing apparatus.
Noisy tappet (with correct clearance)
  1. Wear in rocker pad face and/or rocker sleeve and shaft (OHV).
  2. Worn cam follower (OHC).
  1. Reface pad surface, replace rockers or shaft (OHV).
  2. Fit new followers (OHC).
Big-end knock
  1. Wear between big-end shell and crankcase. Wrong torque on bolts.
  1. Depending on wear, fit new shells, regrind crankshaft and check torqu
Mains rumble
  1. Wear between main bearing shells and crankshaft.
  1. As Above
Cam follower tap
  1. Camshaft worn or follower dished.
  1. Examine and replace followers or camshaft. Or Both
Knocking when clutch depressed. Movement at crank pulley
  1. Excessive crankshaft end-float. Wear between crank and thrust washer.
  1. Fit new thrust washers and recheck clearance.
Clattering from fron of engine
  1. Excessive or slack timing chain, worn chain tensioner.
  1. Fit new chain and tensioner. Adjust chain were necessary.
Small-end or gudgion pin knock
  1. Excessive wear between gudgeon pin and con-rod.
  1. Fit new bush or con-rod.
Lack of oil pressure
  1. Excessive wear in crankshaft journals.
  2. Faulty oil pump.
  3. Blocked oil pick-up strainer.
  4. Faulty pressure-relief valve.
  5. Blocked oil filter.
  6. Lack of oil
  1. Overhaul engine.
  2. Fit new pump.
  3. Clean pick-up.
  4. Fit new relief valve.
  5. Fit new filter.
  6. Install fresh oil.
Oil leaks
  1. Sump gaskets or packings.
  2. Front and rear crankshaft oil seal.
  3. rocker or camshaft gasket.
  4. Oil filter.
  1. Fit new gaskets.
  2. Fit new seals.
  3. Fit new gasket.
  4. Check filter seal.
Lack of power (engine in good condition)
  1. Faulty ignition timing. Faulty sparking plugs, points or condenser. Wrong valve clearance.
  1. Tune engine.


Jump to:   Brakes | Engine | Steering | Fuel | Electrical | Clutch | Cooling




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Steering
Problem Solvers		 Steering Troubleshooting Illustration
PROBLEM CAUSE CURE
Steering feels stiff
  1. Low tire presures
  2. Incorrect wheel alignment
  3. Stiff track rod ends
  4. Steering box/rack needs adjustment
  1. Correct tire pressures.
  2. Correct wheel alignment.
  3. Check and replace if necessary.
  4. Adjust if necessary.
Steering wheel shake
  1. Wheels and tires need balancing
  2. Tire pressures incorrect
  3. Incorrect wheel aligment
  4. Wheel hub nut loose
  5. Wheel bearings damaged
  6. Front suspension distored
  7. Steering box/rack needs adjustment
  8. Shock absorbers faulty
  1. Balance as necessary.
  2. Correct.
  3. Correct alignment.
  4. Adjust wheel bearings.
  5. replace wheel bearings.
  6. Check, repair or replace.
  7. Adjust as necessary.
Steering pulls to one side
  1. Uneven tire pressure
  2. Wheel alignment incorrect
  3. Wheel bearings worn or damaged
  4. Brakes imporperly adjusted
  5. Shock absorbers faulty
  6. Suspension distorted
  7. Steering box/rack worn
  1. Correct.
  2. Correct.
  3. Replace and adjust.
  4. Adjust brakes.
  5. Check and rectify.
  6. Check and rectifly.
  7. Adjust and replace.
Wheel tramp
  1. Over-inflated tires
  2. Unbalanced tire and wheel
  3. Defective shock absorber
  4. Defective tire
  1. Correct pressure.
  2. Check and balance if necessary.
  3. Check and rectify.
  4. Repair or replace.
Abnormal tire wear
  1. Incorrect tire pressure
  2. Incorrect wheel alignment
  3. Excessive wheel bearing play
  4. Improper driving
  1. Check pressures.
  2. Check wheel alignment.
  3. Adjust wheel bearings.
  4. Avoid sharp turning at high speeds, rapid starting and braking, etc.
Tire noises
  1. Improper tire inflation
  2. Incorrect wheel alignment
  1. Correct tire pressures.
  2. Correct wheel alignment.


Jump to:   Brakes | Engine | Steering | Fuel | Electrical | Clutch | Cooling



Fuel Troubleshooting Illustration Fuel
Problem Solvers
PROBLEM CAUSE CURE
Flooding
  1. Improper seating or damaged float needle valve or seat
  2. Incorrect float level
  3. Fuel pump has excessive pressure
  1. Check and replace parts as necessary.
  2. Adjust float level.
  3. Check fuel pump.
Excessive fuel consumption
  1. Engine out of tune
  2. Float level too high
  3. Loose plug or jet
  4. Defective gasket
  5. Fuel leaks at pipes or connections
  6. Choke valve operates improperly
  7. Obstructed air bleed
  1. Tune engine.
  2. Adjust float leverl.
  3. Tighten plug or jet.
  4. Replace gaskets.
  5. Trace leak and rectify.
  6. Check choke valve.
  7. Check and clear.
Stalling
  1. Main jet obstructed
  2. Incorrect throttle opening
  3. Slow-running adjustment incorrect
  4. Slow-running fuel jet blocked
  5. Incorrect float level
  1. Clean main jet.
  2. Adjust throttle.
  3. Adjust slow-running.
  4. Clean jet.
  5. Adjust float leverl.
Poor acceleration
  1. Defective accelerator pump (if fitted)
  2. float level too low
  3. Incorrect throttle opening
  4. Defective accelerator linkage
  5. blocked pump jet
  1. Overhaul pump.
  2. Adjust float lever.
  3. Adjust throttle.
  4. Adjust accelerator linkage.
  5. Clean pumpjet.
Spitting
  1. Lean mixture
  2. Dirty Carburetor
  3. Clogged fuel pipes
  4. Manifold draws secondary air
  1. Clean and adjust carburetor.
  2. Clean carburetor.
  3. Clean and replace pipes.
  4. Tighten or replace gasket.
Insufficient fuel supply
  1. Clogged carburtor
  2. Clogged fuel pipe
  3. Dirty fuel
  4. Air in fuel system
  5. Defective fuel pump
  6. Clogged fuel filter
  1. Dismantle and clean carburetor.
  2. Clean fuel pipe.
  3. Clean fuel tank.
  4. Check connections and tighten.
  5. repair or replace fuel pump.
  6. Clean or replace filter.
Loss of fuel delivery
  1. Pump faulty (electric)
  2. Slotted body screws loose
  3. Diaphragm cracked
  4. Loose fuel pipe connections
  5. Defective valves
  6. Cracked fuel pipes
  1. replace pump.
  2. Tighten body screws.
  3. Overhaul fuel pump.
  4. Tighten fuel pipe connections.
  5. Replace valves.
  6. Replace fuel pipes.
Noisy pump
  1. Loose pump mounting
  2. worn or defective rocker arm (if manual)
  3. Broken rocker arm spring (if manual)
  1. Tighten mounting bolts.
  2. Replace rocker arm.
  3. Replace spring.


Jump to:   Brakes | Engine | Steering | Fuel | Electrical | Clutch | Cooling




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Electrical
Problem Solvers		 Electrical Troubleshooting Illustration
PROBLEM CAUSE CURE
STARTER
Starter doesn't turn
(lights dim)
  1. Battery flat or worn
  2. Bad connection in battery circuit
  1. Charge or fit new battery.
  2. Check all feed and earth connections.
starter doesn't turn
(lights stay bright)
  1. Faulty ignition switch
  2. Broken starter circuit
  1. Check switch.
  2. Check starter circuit.
Solenoid switch chatters
  1. Flat battery
  1. Charge or replace battery
Starter just spins
  1. Bendix gear sticking
  1. Remove starter and clean or replace Bendix gear.
CHARGING CIRCUIT
Low or no charge rate
  1. Broken or slipping drive belt
  2. Poor connections on or faulty alternator.
  1. Fit new belt.
  2. Check and replace alternator.
LIGHTING CIRCUIT
No lights (or very dim)
  1. Flat or faulty battery, bad battery connections
  1. Check battery and connections.
side and rear lights inoperative although stoplights and flashers work
  1. Fuse blown
  1. Fit correct value fuse
One lamp fails
  1. Blown bulb
  2. Poor bulb contact
  3. Bad earth connection
  4. Broken feed
  1. Fit new bulb.
  2. Check connections.
  3. Check connection.
  4. Check feed.
Flasher wrning bulb stays on or flashers twice as fast
  1. Faulty bulb or connection on front or rear of offending side
  1. Fit new bulb, make good connection.
Lights dim when idling or at low speed
  1. Loose drive belt
  2. Flat battery
  3. Faulty charging circuit
  1. Tighten belt.
  2. Check charge output and battery.
  3. Check charge output and battery.
One dim light
  1. Blackened bulb
  2. Bad earth
  3. Tarnished reflector
  1. fit new bulb or sealed-beam.
  2. Check earth connections.
  3. Fit new bulb or sealed-beam.
WINDSCREEN WIPERS
Wipers do not work
  1. Blown fuse
  2. Poor connection
  3. Faulty switch
  4. Faulty motor
  1. Fit fuse.
  2. Check connections
  3. Check switch.
  4. remove and examine motor.
Motor operates slowly
  1. Excessive resistance in circuit or wiper drive
  2. worn brushes
  1. Check wiper circuit.
  2. Remove motor and check brushes.


Jump to:   Brakes | Engine | Steering | Fuel | Electrical | Clutch | Cooling



Clutch Troubleshooting Illustration Clutch
Problem Solvers
PROBLEM CAUSE CURE
Clutch slips
  1. Clutch facing worn
  2. Clutch facing contaminated
  3. Warped clutch cover or pressure plate
  4. Incorrect adjustment (if adjustable)
  1. Replace clutch assembly.
  2. Replace Clutch assembly.
  3. Replace clutch assembly.
  4. Adjust.
Clutch drags
  1. faulty clutch hydraulics (if hydraulic)
  2. Faulty clutch adjustment (if adjustable)
  3. Clutch disc warped
  4. Clutch hub spines worn or rusty
  5. diaphragm worn or mal-adjusted
  1. Overhaul or replace clutch hydraulics.
  2. Adjust clutch.
  3. replace clutch disc.
  4. replace or lubricate clutch.
  5. Replace pressure plate
Clutch chatter
  1. Faulty pressure plate
  2. Faulty clutch disc
  3. Loose or worn engine mounting
  1. Replace pressure plate.
  2. Replace clutch disc.
  3. Replace mounting.
Clutch noise
  1. Insufficient grease on bearing sleeve
  2. Clutch installed incorrectly
  1. Lubricate
  2. Check installation.
Clutch noise (pedal down)
  1. Faulty release bearing
  1. Replace bearing
Clutch noise (pedal on the way up)
  1. Damaged or worn pilot bearing
  1. Fit new bearing
Clutch grabs
  1. Contaminated clutch lining
  2. Clutch worn or loose rivets
  3. Clutch splines worn or rusted
  4. Warped flywheel or pressure plate
  5. Loose mountings on engine or power unit.
  1. Replace clutch.
  2. Replace clutch.
  3. Clean or replace.
  4. Repair or replace.
  5. Tighten or replace.


Jump to:   Brakes | Engine | Steering | Fuel | Electrical | Clutch | Cooling



Cooling
Problem Solvers		 Cooling Troubleshooting Illustration
PROBLEM CAUSE CURE
Overheating
  1. Inoperative thermostat
  2. Radiator fin choked with mud, leaves, etc.
  3. Incorrect ignition and valve timing
  4. Dirty oil and sludge in engine
  5. Inoperative water pump
  6. Loose fan bels
  7. Restricted radiator
  8. Inaccurate temperature gauge
  9. Impurtiy in water
  1. Replace thermostat
  2. Clean out air passage.
  3. Tune engine.
  4. Change engine oil and filter.
  5. Replace (or check electrical).
  6. Adjust tension.
  7. Flush Radiatro.
  8. Replace temperature gauge.
  9. Use sofe, clean water.
Loss of coolant
  1. Leaking radiator hose(s)
  2. Damaged radiator
  3. Leak at heater connection or plug
  4. damaged cylinder head gasket
  5. Cracked cylinder block
  6. Cracked cylinder head
  7. Loose cylinder head bolts
  1. Replace.
  2. Repair or replace radiator.
  3. Repair or replace.
  4. Replace gasket. Check engine oil and refill as necessary.
  5. Replace cylinder block. Check engine oil in crankcase for mixing with water.
  6. Replace cylinder head.
  7. Tighten cylinder head bolts.
Overcooling
  1. Inoperative thermostat
  2. Inaccurate temperature gauge
  1. Replace thermostat.
  2. Replace temperature gauge.
Poor circulation
  1. Restriction in system
  2. Insufficient coolant
  3. Inoperative water pump
  4. Loose fan belt
  5. Inoperative thermostat
  1. Check hoses for crimping. Clear the system of rust and sludge.
  2. Replenish.
  3. Replace water pump.
  4. Adjust fan belt.
  5. Replace thermostat
Corrosion
  1. Excessive impurity in water
  2. Infrequent flushing and draining of system
  1. Use soft, clean water.
  2. Flush thoroughly at least twice a year.

Original scan by the NAMGBR



— Troubleshooting Guide for Classic Cars —
Written by Abingdon Classics – Created 2006-04-02 Published
Contents © Copyrighted and published under the following terms:
Copyright © the author and published by permission or fair use.

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Member Comments on Troubleshooting Guide for Classic Cars   ↵
Rated 8.4 out of 10 based on 5 ratings
2008-02-06 18:56:15 # 851
Comment by Billy Andrews
Rating: 10/10
This is about the best page ever. Thanks!
2012-01-04 07:47:37 # 4323
Comment by Israel Castillo Serulle
Rating: 8/10
Excellent!
Would like to see a chapter about "Suspension" if its possible.
Thank You!
2012-03-28 15:01:25 # 5355
Comment by ralph colacicco
how to set water autochoke on 1976 mgb with zs carb
2012-05-05 15:45:13 # 5913
Comment by Rick P
My 76 TR6 has just started dropping out of overdrive. When I reactivate
the control lever, it goes back into o/d for a moment or two, then drops
out again. I'm suspecting electric problems, any experience or tips as
to where to go first?
2012-07-31 06:13:46 # 6988
Comment by david shackleton
i have just replaced my headgasket on my 1973 triumph spitifre 1300cc. since i have replaced it the car will turnover but will not start. things i have done ,checked value clearance and adjusted to .25mm using the guide in the haynes book.checked all spark plugs and they have a spark and the rotary arm points to the certain plug .checked the petrol and it is reaching the carbs and the sparkplugs are wet but i cannot really smell petrol on them.checked the timing on value 1 to the timing mark on the cover .
2012-10-16 17:14:25 # 7825
Comment by robert pyles
HELLO EVERYONE I HAVE A 1974 MGB THAT HAS A SHORT, WHEN I CONNECT A TEST LIGHT UP TO THE BATTERY WITH VICEGRIPES AND CONNECT THE OTHER END TO THE + TERM THE LIGHT GLOWS SO I KNOW THERE IS A DRAW,I PULL ONE FUSE AT A TIME BUT THE LIGHT STAYS ON, NOT SURE WHAT TO LOOK FOR FROM HERE. CAN ANYONE HELP.
2012-10-19 18:39:08 # 7866
Comment by Deon Rooks
If anyone can help .... I noticed today that on my 79 B the marker lights on the passenger side are out as it the right tail light ( turn signal works) Brake lights dont come on and the headlights seem dim any ideas as to what the problem is .. Thanks
2012-10-26 03:52:06 # 7947
Comment by jim d
I have 79 mg midget, none of the lights work(tail,turn,stop,dash,wipers,radio,e-flasher). Car runs(drove home). Where do I start.First mg.
2012-11-18 13:58:56 # 8178
Comment by Ray Wilson
Just purchased a 79 mgb. The tack just stopped working. Anyone with a idea of where to start?
2012-11-21 18:37:39 # 8217
Comment by Larry P
Hi, My 1974 MG Midget makes a rough noise in 1st gear. Any ideas as to cause?
2013-04-24 15:12:22 # 10125
Comment by mark bowers
hs4 carb , petrol flowing out of carb over flow pipe?
2013-10-16 05:38:24 # 12353
Comment by Janine Kesting
Hi Have a MGB mrk 2 runs well, but slow to start after stopping or in
the morning. Struggles to turn over sounds like batter going flat, BUT
when finally starts, it goes well. have just had 2 6 volt batteries
replaced with one new 12 volt, chock cable replaced. Problem not soved.
Any advice Thanks
2014-02-13 18:08:11 # 14132
Comment by Skye Nott
Rating: 9/10
Please post your questions in the MGB or Midget forum....
http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/
2014-08-01 20:01:57 # 19432
Comment by john pisano
after driving my 1973 for a while when i park it i see anti freeze leaking under car near rear of the engine car doesn't run hot looks like it's along the frame cant it be the heater box ? any answers
2014-10-06 20:01:35 # 20809
Comment by paul righini
my 76 midget i just purchased still has no brake lights and no directional lightsanyone who can give me some advise?
2014-10-09 00:57:23 # 20841
Comment by Skye Nott
Hi Paul, Please post your questions in the MGB or Midget forum....http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/
2014-10-31 15:32:07 # 21277
Comment by Rich Graham
just purchased a 1979 mgb and driver side headlight low beam was out ,high beam worked, simple... replace the bulb.so I did (both) so now nether work. all the rest do still. but no headlights. any suggestions..
2014-12-12 10:42:03 # 22240
Comment by Karl Roscoe
I have a 1948 Lincoln Continental is the electric power steeringavailable.
2014-12-15 14:39:23 # 22305
Comment by Mike D
I have a 1960 AH Bugeye with a grinding sound coming from the rear left side. I'm thinking wheel bearing. Any suggestions would be appreciated.Mike D
2015-06-17 17:29:53 # 26789
Comment by Oren K
I have a 1966 triumph spitfire MK2 need the color codes wiring for ignition switch
2015-06-27 13:27:06 # 27001
Comment by Hersh Sisodia
Rating: 7/10
Very useful page. Need to keep adding to it by those in the know. Read...this is not me :-)
2018-10-09 03:13:35 # 52296
Comment by Thomas Docherty
I have a 1976 MGB and have just replaced the distributor with electronic ignition but I have a timing problem If I try to tune numbe 1 plug to anything less than 20 degrees before TDC with the vac advance disconnected the engine backfires and runs around 600 rpm..
2020-05-05 15:59:04 # 63354
Comment by Dennis Reiner
I have 69 MK 3, Just started backfiring when I down shift. The Temp seems fine. It has anWeber carb on it, when I took the filter off, there was some oil on the pan & filter.Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
2020-06-21 14:21:22 # 64205
Comment by Denton Perry
Great page. Priceless.
2022-12-09 04:53:28 # 84154
Comment by Harry K
I HAVE A 80 TRIUMPH TR8. THE CAR WILL NOT START. THE IGNITION COIL POSITIVE SIDE HAS 4 VOLTS WITH IGNITION KEY ON. CRACKING ENGINE, COIL POSITIVE SIDE HAS 5 VOLTS. IS THIS ENOUGH VOLTAGE TO THE COIL TO START ENGINE?

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