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Morgan +4 Forum

Transmission Rebuild

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61highline Tim Remesal
Santa Rosa, California, USA   USA
1961 Morgan Plus 4 (+4) "61Highline"
I've got my late 50's Tr3 all syncro transmission being rebuilt . I'm planning on installing it in my 61 +4 Highline. My car is dissasembled to the frame.
What issues will I have with foot space , IE gas peddle ? Have any of you done this conversion ? Thanks , Tim

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61highline Tim Remesal
Santa Rosa, California, USA   USA
1961 Morgan Plus 4 (+4) "61Highline"
Duncan : Is that why I've seen that rather awkward " push -pull " shifting device on some Morgans ?

Button Bill B
Seattle, Washington, USA   USA
My '63 4/4 Originally had the Push Pull set up. Not awkward at all. In fact I liked it. Just a bit different.

Button

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BuyBritish Rob D
Ipswich, Suffolk, UK   GBR
Just rebuilt our plus 4 moss gearbox and on the bench all gears selected well, and stop rivet on first is not worn

When fully bolted into car worked ok then first became tempermental to get into first I can only guess its due to the gear and plunger relationship on the shaft.

My castle nut at the rear of gearbox is not tight BUT ive been told that if i have ball bearing race at the rear then i tighten up hard

im hoping this pulls the shaft rearwards and then selecting first is made easier anyone comment please, Duncan?

DuncanCharlton Avatar
DuncanCharlton Duncan Charlton
Elgin, Texas, USA   USA
1931 Morgan 3 Wheeler "Gwenda (Sold)"
1967 Morgan 4/4 "Toly's Car"
1967 Unknown Unknown
1970 Mini Countryman    & more
Tim, not on the Plus 4. The push/pull showed up originally on the Series II 4/4 that had the shift lever protrude from the gearbox cover on the engine side of the firewall. Later 4/4s (I'm guessing through the Series V models, or through about 1967) had the shift lever farther back but still fairly far forward. Several people have said they much preferred the push/pull to the optional Wooler remote and I can see why -- the Wooler is very crude and I can see that it would be difficult to always select the right gear without a bit of jiggling of the lever.

DuncanCharlton Avatar
DuncanCharlton Duncan Charlton
Elgin, Texas, USA   USA
1931 Morgan 3 Wheeler "Gwenda (Sold)"
1967 Morgan 4/4 "Toly's Car"
1967 Unknown Unknown
1970 Mini Countryman    & more
Yes, it's critical to tighten the nut firmly because it pulls the main shaft rearward (no need to worry about leaving slack because it's not like a tapered roller bearing used on a wheel hub). Whether that will make it easier to get into first gear, I'm not sure.

Duncan

BuyBritish Rob D
Ipswich, Suffolk, UK   GBR
Yes Duncan she rolls into first like a dream !

As you say it pulls the shaft rearward and that approx 1/16 " makes all the difference

I now have a very smooth running moss box, all bearings replaced and sweet as a nut

thank you for your invaluable help duncan

Rob

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DuncanCharlton Avatar
DuncanCharlton Duncan Charlton
Elgin, Texas, USA   USA
1931 Morgan 3 Wheeler "Gwenda (Sold)"
1967 Morgan 4/4 "Toly's Car"
1967 Unknown Unknown
1970 Mini Countryman    & more
Rob -- excellent news. A couple of test drives will let you know whether you got the synchro spring pressures right. Hopefully you got a good compromise somewhere in the middle of no synchro action vs. stiff, notchy shifting.

Duncan

BuyBritish Rob D
Ipswich, Suffolk, UK   GBR
Basically if you cannot get first in a moss box the position of the rear most cluster on the main shaft is not positioned over the groove machined in the main shaft correctly before the mechanism actuates

I found merely tightening the rear castle nut pulled the main shaft rearward approx 1/16" and that then enabled first gear
(Assuming you have ball bearing at rear main shaft)

Try the castle nut then if an improvement but still not good a shim between rear bearing and first gear cluster may help

Check for wear in the rear cover that holds the rear bearing in place, you need to get the rear bearing inside the gearbox closer to the gear cluster 1/16" or so trail and error, a shim can be placed inside the box and tests done with gearbox in place (remove lid insert shim refit lid and try gear stick into first

Good luck

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perry911113 Avatar
perry911113 Peter Perry
Rensselaer, NY, USA   USA
1951 MG TD "Barn Find SOLD"
1958 MG MGA 1500
1959 MG MGA "MGA Rally Car"
1970 MG MGB GT "SOLD"    & more
In reply to # 11705 by 61highline I've got my late 50's Tr3 all syncro transmission being rebuilt . I'm planning on installing it in my 61 +4 Highline. My car is dissasembled to the frame.
What issues will I have with foot space , IE gas peddle ? Have any of you done this conversion ? Thanks , Tim

There is a reason why Morgan did not use the TR gearbox for the Plus 4. There is no room to the right of the brake pedal for the gas pedal.
There is a TR powered 4/4 that is going to auction at Owl's Head. That car has a TR gear box in it and you will see the gas pedal is located above the brake pedal.

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