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Morgan +4 Forum

1962/3 Plus 4 Starting Issues

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Broadcaster Avatar
Broadcaster Silver Member Bob RA
Glendale, CA, USA   USA
In reply to # 13519 by 38 DHC Installed the new mechanical pump, with priming lever today, with help from friends. Wednesday is garage day each week and the Morgan contingent in the region descends on my abode and we tinker on whatever is needed. Today nothing pressing so the fuel pump went in.

Cheers,
Mark
And the juicy part left out ...what was the result suspense is killing us :-)

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38 DHC Mark Braunstein
Vicinity of Orlando, FL, USA   USA
1934 Morgan 3 Wheeler "Moss MOG"
1938 Morgan 4-4 "Uncle Georges Winter Carriage"
1951 Morgan Plus 4 (+4)
1986 Morgan Plus 8 (+8)    & more
Well. bottom line - I think the mechanical pump is working. Two issues made it a bit more difficult than it needed to be. Installation was a bit of a pain as the taped receptacles for two fuel lines (in and out) were not clean (Moss Motors Repro Pump) and I needed to take a tap to them to get the fuel line fittings to well, fit. I didn't have the right size tap so a run to ACE Hardware and voila. Tapped the receptacles and the lines went in easy. Then we got a little concerned. The priming lever however didn't act as anticipated. We installed it and the glass bowl integral to the pump casting was empty. We thought pumping up and down on the priming lever would fill the bowl. Well it didn't. However, once the bowl was full and the fuel line free of air to the carb, the pumping the priming lever shot fuel to the carbs. The question then is will the float bowl stay full while the car sits, and priming lever will simply need to fill the carb float bowls. The thought was yes.

Cheers,
Mark

Broadcaster Avatar
Broadcaster Silver Member Bob RA
Glendale, CA, USA   USA
Touch wood I have never seen the bowl empty even when I have starting issues. But the priming lever is a God send......for now
But the electric aux pump becomes more and more attractive
Yesterday I fitted a steel shield between the petrol tank and the hand brake lump to at least have some barrier. Based on the advice on this page.
Happy Thanksgiving
Getting ready for the Church ...no car issues until after the Turkey doo dah

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38 DHC Mark Braunstein
Vicinity of Orlando, FL, USA   USA
1934 Morgan 3 Wheeler "Moss MOG"
1938 Morgan 4-4 "Uncle Georges Winter Carriage"
1951 Morgan Plus 4 (+4)
1986 Morgan Plus 8 (+8)    & more
The metal barrier is good insurance and I always have some metal scrap that will work. I have used it on all my 4 wheelers and on a few of my friends.

I too have to do what she is asking. I think dusting everywhere and cleaning the powder room are still to do on my to do list. At least I can look forward to the meal and that we have Morgan friends coming later. The weather is lovely in Florida today so there may be a car or two to poke at . . .

Cheers,
Mark

DuncanCharlton Avatar
DuncanCharlton Duncan Charlton
Elgin, TX, USA   USA
1967 Morgan 4/4 "Toly's Car"
1967 Unknown Unknown
1971 Morgan Plus 8 (+8)
I found an inertia switch from a Ford Taurus at a salvage yard. I doubt it cost $10.

Duncan

gapl1953 Avatar
gapl1953 Greg Leitza
Springbrook, WI, USA   USA
1960 MG MGA
In reply to # 13520 by Broadcaster
In reply to # 13519 by 38 DHC Installed the new mechanical pump, with priming lever today, with help from friends. Wednesday is garage day each week and the Morgan contingent in the region descends on my abode and we tinker on whatever is needed. Today nothing pressing so the fuel pump went in.

Cheers,
Mark
And the juicy part left out ...what was the result suspense is killing us :-)

Is this referring to what parts were leftover, or that the problem has been solved. eye rolling smiley

Button Avatar
Button Silver Member Bill B
Seattle, WA, USA   USA
I prefer using a Mechanical Pump with a prime lever. But I have had problems with the float bowl gasket leaking air. However: I do also have an emergency electric pump tucked back in the rear fender. It is not plumbed in nor electric hook up . However it can be put on line very quickly. Good thing the electric pump is out of the way but available. The bad thing about putting it in the rear fender is that it gets the water/mud/etc. from the rear wheel. I do protect it with a rubber flap but it could be better.

Button

galja2 james g
marseiles, IL, USA   USA
1970 MG MGB
On my 1963 +4.
I manually pump the fuel pump,make sure the choke is out and it would usually start fairly well.i added electronic points and it starts instantly..when hot sometimes vapor lock.i covered the fuel line with insulation and well see

Broadcaster Avatar
Broadcaster Silver Member Bob RA
Glendale, CA, USA   USA
In reply to # 13901 by galja2 On my 1963 +4.
I manually pump the fuel pump,make sure the choke is out and it would usually start fairly well.i added electronic points and it starts instantly..when hot sometimes vapor lock.i covered the fuel line with insulation and well see

I would be very interested to know about the electronic items replacing the points can you please post some details?
Also can you please tell if it is a TR3 or 4
I would like to do this too

galja2 james g
marseiles, IL, USA   USA
1970 MG MGB
The two companies are accu spark which I think is only for negative ground cars and Pertronix makes them for both.Mine is accu spark.
Ebay,Moss Motors and I am sure others.For points modification and a new coil they are less then $100.About 30 minutes to install.
If you need a distributor petronix has electronic ones also.

SJM1 Jan Morgan
Thousand Oaks, CA, USA   USA
One thing to think about if installing an electric fuel pump in front of the mechanical fuel pump.

Should you develop a leak in the pump diaphragm, your electric fuel pump will pump the oil pan full of fuel as it leaks past the mechanical pump, into the engine.

If you go to an electric pump, do install the inertia switch, but also remove the old mechanical pump and install a cover plate.

Install the electric pump next to the fuel tank for best fuel pressure. You may need to install a pressure regulator if you don't have the proper match to the carburetor's fuel requirements. Sometimes, the fuel pump may put out too much pressure. This is usually a problem with Weber carburetors, but can be a problem with SUs as well.

One more thing. If the car has been sitting, do allow the fuel pump to run for a few seconds prior to start up to ensure that the float bowl is filled, other wise, you still be grinding, waiting for the thing to start, and burn up the starter.

Check the choke as well for proper operation and full travel.

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