Morgan +4 Forum

Glad you got it sorted Ray, your persistence is acknowledged and applauded....well done!

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Bert & B1800
"Tis well enough to know how much to know; and when to know, not to know too much."

you have received a lot of good advice, but I have dealt with that same problem for over 40 years of Triumph engine cars and I couldn't get along without a fuel pump with a priming lever. The gas drains back out of the carbs with sitting and all you have to do is pump it back with the priming lever. You can feel when the bowls are full when you pump the lever. A shot of starting fluid isn't a bad idea also.

These pumps are back in production and listed in Morgan spares catalog.

John

When I first bought my Morgan 1963 twin SU I had exactly the same issue. I drove once a week to the cars and coffee and starting that in the morning was not fun. Once started it went well and later it started good too. Until next week
I ended up charging the battery the night before the show as a prelude to the car show on Saturday Mornings meet

Assuming the engine is OK and the carbs (SU) are OK any petrol driven engine requires 2 things to get going fuel and electric spark

Checking fuel is easy

disconnect fuel line from carburetor end (not pump end as it is a swine getting the pump end back in without it leaking afterwards) then crank the engine once and see if fuel is spurting out......... if it does then more than likely is an electrical fault

In my case it was the connection to the coil although it had an electrical connector. I discovered that it was holding on only by ONE Strand of wire

Once that was done it would start on the second or third crank without fail. It is beside the point that I later changed the fuel pump and replaced the total distributer with electronic ignition and the starter for a high torque starter. Since then it has been just one may be 2 cranks

$300 for electronic ignition
$58.00 for a new fuel pump
$285.00 for a high torque starter
$ 250.00 Change of dynamo to alternator
Oh before you mess with electrics convert it from positive earth to negative earth it costs nothing but it saves hassle later

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I am always OK............. the trouble is with the others :-)

That is very true hence a fuel pump with primer

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I am always OK............. the trouble is with the others :-)

Or just install an electric fuel pump... Turn the key, tick-tick-tick... and the carb float bowls are full. Facet makes lots of them, from little cube ones to the old Bendix style with the filter screen on the bottom. I have been using the Bendix type on my +8, and the cube type on my Lotish replica. I like them because they are easily sourced just about anywhere, usually hanging in a blister pack at the auto parts store.

The comprehensive approach is the best. Here are some alternatives:

You really don't have to spend $350 for electronic ignition. You can just install a Pertronix ignitor (the "2" is a good one) for about half that. It takes only minutes to install, replacing the points. In my experience, this has solved a lot of ignition problems. I use similar systems on my motorcycle restorations. Always a quick start.
If you want, you can combine it with a fresh Lucas type distributor (also available from Pertronix), or a multi spark box (ditto). I've done both. 'Happy either way.

Going through the ignition wiring is also a good idea. Besides the coil wires, the spark plug leads may also need replacing, especially if they are as old as the car...
Often, a charged battery, solid coil connections, a Pertronix trigger replacing the points will wake up the engine quickly. A "tune up", accurate timing, fresh plugs and clean fuel will probably solve most starting problems without having to crack open the SUs. This really woke up my cranky, Edelbrock equipped +8.
FYI: I use an Inova timing light that has tach, dwell and voltage. $100 and worth every penny. Also, get a Motive Power brake bleeder. 'Makes maintenance chores such as brake flush or bleeding a one person operation. No pumping required. Amazing...

Note: If you are storing the car for long periods with half a tank of fuel, no IC engine will run on water. Just say'n... Keep your fuel tank full if you are only using the car once a month.
TR 3 and 4 Triumphs were our daily drives in High School (late 60s) and College, and mine were never unreliable, starting every cold morning.
If you do need a starter, nothing beats the latest in high torque, geared Hitachi/Denso Honda based starters, and there are many nice alternators that can replace the starter, or one of the "genernators" (an alternator that looks just like the original generator) available. I have been using Chinese alternators that I purchase from Amazon, originally a replacement part for a Hitachi or Denso alternator on a Kubota forklift. These things are cheap at less than $100, and have outlasted numerous Lucas units. They are nicely balanced, don't mind 6000 RPM, and are small, very light and easily mounted (a turnbuckle is usually used for a lower adjustable mount), plenty of amps for a simple car like the Morgan. I have yet to fail one, and the one on my personal BMC engine has more than 10,000 miles on it. It's even rebuildable. So far, I have installed 6 over the last decade, and all are still working properly.
Wear gloves so you don't get too greasy...

I did changed the ignitor to Pertronix. I also added a one way flow valve to the fuel line just proximal to the float bowls. That seems to do the trick as far as getting my Morgan started after sitting in my garage for a long time.

Thanks everyone!

Ray

I found that my choke wasn't actually opening the carb piston enough to allow a richer mixture. Once I tightened the choke cable a bit, it worked like a charm.