Morgan +8 Forum
Installing MSD Throttle Body FI
Posted by Button
|
SJM1
Jan Morgan
|
May 25, 2018 04:06 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 8 years ago
2,310 Posts
|
|
Topic Creator (OP)
May 26, 2018 09:59 AM
Joined 8 years ago
315 Posts
|
|
Looks like I must remove the Offenhauser Manifold I was using and replace it with the Dual Port Manifold. I also converted My brakes to a Vacuum booster system and need the Vacuum Port available on the Dual Port Manifold. So it will be a few more days before I test it. Also I must run the fuel hoses. I have pictures of a '98 system so that will not be a problem.
Button
Button
|
SJM1
Jan Morgan
|
May 26, 2018 01:30 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 8 years ago
2,310 Posts
|
You can drill and tap your Offenhauser "360" if that is what you have, for a vacuum port to feed your brake booster. You may also be able to get a spacer that is drilled for the vacuum port. I would probably just drill and tap the thing...
If you can't figure out where to put the vacuum port, I may be able to get the right information for you.
The 360 is a "split single plane", but low profile. It's RPM range is listed to 5,500 RPM.
The dual port will work too. But... If given the choice, I would go with the Offenhauser 360.
I can't think of a reason that the dual port would be problematic, as both sides of the intake tract will be in continuous use so fuel distribution should be OK.
If you can't figure out where to put the vacuum port, I may be able to get the right information for you.
The 360 is a "split single plane", but low profile. It's RPM range is listed to 5,500 RPM.
The dual port will work too. But... If given the choice, I would go with the Offenhauser 360.
I can't think of a reason that the dual port would be problematic, as both sides of the intake tract will be in continuous use so fuel distribution should be OK.
|
Topic Creator (OP)
May 26, 2018 04:51 PM
Joined 8 years ago
315 Posts
|
|
Well to get the 360 drilled for vacuum I need odd size drill bits which I don't have in stock. As well as directions for drilling. Not much space to work with on the 360. I noticed that the Dual Port is drilled for a 3/8" NPT adapter and than holes are drilled in the end Into each side. So it looks like the Dual Port. Remember it is Memorial Day and shops not open Monday. Also I am getting antsy as well to get it running.
Button
Button
|
SJM1
Jan Morgan
|
May 26, 2018 05:29 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 8 years ago
2,310 Posts
|
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Jun 1, 2018 01:48 PM
Joined 8 years ago
315 Posts
|
|
Now installed on Offenhauser Dual Port with 1/4" spacer so control does not drag on the manifold. Now to hook it up to the electronics and fuel.
Button
Button
|
DuncanCharlton
Duncan Charlton
Elgin, TX, USA
Sign in to contact
|
Jun 4, 2018 06:53 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 10 years ago
1,284 Posts
|
Bill, have you figured out yet whether you've got full throttle range? I think you've been through this before with a previous carb, where you can't get full throttle without redrilling the hole in the throttle arm to raise its centerline a little and then adding an eccentric bushing.
Duncan
Duncan
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Jun 4, 2018 10:25 AM
Joined 8 years ago
315 Posts
|
|
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Jun 4, 2018 09:43 PM
Joined 8 years ago
315 Posts
|
|
Hard work day. Running fuel supply. Seems simple, however, it is not. Fuel supply is 3/8", fuel return is 5/16". MSD TBI is 3/8". Rover fuel pump is 5/16". So adapters must be installed to make this work. I decided to use 3/8" for the supply side and 5/16" for the return. Ran both lines over the rear axle and up the center, under the drive line and then on the right side of the transmission up to and into the engine compartment. But out of the living spaces. These are all rubber hoses suitable for the pressures of TBI and resistant to ethanol and other chemical nasties . Before I install the transmission and drive line cover, I will secure the fuel lines very carefully. No connections in the cockpit. Tomorrow I start the electrics.
Button
Button
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Jun 7, 2018 09:59 AM
Joined 8 years ago
315 Posts
|
|
Yesterday I finished the fuel system, mounted the power module and began the wiring. First was the Oxygen Sensor which required removing the exhaust system and taking it to the Exhaust welder for a new bung. The one that was in was rusted solid. Keeping the wiring harness away from the hot exhaust pipe was a challenge, but hopefully I have this done properly. The water temp sensor was easy, using a port available in the manifold. I won't get any work done today, but tomorrow I will run the fuel Pump, cooling fan, power to battery, keyed power and ground. I cut the nitrus wire as I will not use it. About 7 connections in total. I then should be able to start the +8 and do the programming (looks simple)
Button
Button
|
SJM1
Jan Morgan
|
Jun 9, 2018 07:15 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 8 years ago
2,310 Posts
|
If you use the right wire and some fire sleeve, the wire and the exhaust pipe are not a problem. The wire used on the sensor has a high heat tolerance. After all, they have to last 100,000 miles in mandated testing.
For others contemplating this conversion, use a Bosch "044" external pump, and a swirl pot for the return line. This will save you the trouble of taking your fuel tank and having extra bungs welded in.
The 044 is a production pump used by most fuel injected cars that don't have an in tank submerged pump (Mercedes, Ferrari, Maserati, and various competition car use external pumps, mostly the O44).
I await the first cranking.
For others contemplating this conversion, use a Bosch "044" external pump, and a swirl pot for the return line. This will save you the trouble of taking your fuel tank and having extra bungs welded in.
The 044 is a production pump used by most fuel injected cars that don't have an in tank submerged pump (Mercedes, Ferrari, Maserati, and various competition car use external pumps, mostly the O44).
I await the first cranking.
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Jun 9, 2018 07:19 PM
Joined 8 years ago
315 Posts
|
|
|
SJM1
Jan Morgan
|
Jun 11, 2018 10:13 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 8 years ago
2,310 Posts
|
Another quick note.
If you are looking for aircraft hardware, such as AN or NAS fasteners, fire sleeve, or sheet aluminum, the best prices are at Aircraft Spruce and Speciality Company, the supplier for the world's aircraft kit builders. They have a fabulous catalog that they offer for free. The thing weighs several lbs.
If you are looking for aircraft hardware, such as AN or NAS fasteners, fire sleeve, or sheet aluminum, the best prices are at Aircraft Spruce and Speciality Company, the supplier for the world's aircraft kit builders. They have a fabulous catalog that they offer for free. The thing weighs several lbs.
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Jun 11, 2018 10:37 PM
Joined 8 years ago
315 Posts
|
|
Monday full day. Finished wiring. Did the initial "Setup". Fuel Pump not producing enough pressure. 20 PSI should be a minimum of 48 PSI. Not sure Fuel Regulator is set properly and not sure how to set it properly. Too late to call MSD but will call first thing in the morning.
Button
Button
|
SJM1
Jan Morgan
|
Jun 11, 2018 11:02 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 8 years ago
2,310 Posts
|
The FPR is likely not set properly. Which type do you have, and do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the system at the throttle body injector?
An underhood fuel pressure gauge is useful, especially during this initial tuning phase. I assume that you have one, as you have a fuel pressure number.
Also, you need to check the fuel pressure regulator with the vacuum disconnected. On some of the smaller fuel pressure regulators, the adjustment screw is inside the vacuum line connection.
Does the system have a tachometric relay that shuts down the fuel pump if the engine is not running? If the system does, you may have to bypass it, or crank the engine while setting the fuel pressure. It may be that you need to crank the thing to get the right pressure reading.
The other types of regulators will have an easily identified adjustment screw. Send a picture if you can.
The in tank pump should do at least 60 PSI and more than 40 gallons per hour. If it is not, you may have an blockage or pinch in the line or at the in tank pickup. All of the in tank pumps, such as the popular Walbro will produce plenty of fuel pressure for your TB injector set.
I am surprised at the 48 psi number. Sounds high, but then your system has to cover a large power range, has only 4 injectors with a wide duty cycle range for the injectors.
Your problems are not unusual. I am sure that all will be sorted tomorrow.
I am going to check MSD’s site for the installation instructions for your system.
An underhood fuel pressure gauge is useful, especially during this initial tuning phase. I assume that you have one, as you have a fuel pressure number.
Also, you need to check the fuel pressure regulator with the vacuum disconnected. On some of the smaller fuel pressure regulators, the adjustment screw is inside the vacuum line connection.
Does the system have a tachometric relay that shuts down the fuel pump if the engine is not running? If the system does, you may have to bypass it, or crank the engine while setting the fuel pressure. It may be that you need to crank the thing to get the right pressure reading.
The other types of regulators will have an easily identified adjustment screw. Send a picture if you can.
The in tank pump should do at least 60 PSI and more than 40 gallons per hour. If it is not, you may have an blockage or pinch in the line or at the in tank pickup. All of the in tank pumps, such as the popular Walbro will produce plenty of fuel pressure for your TB injector set.
I am surprised at the 48 psi number. Sounds high, but then your system has to cover a large power range, has only 4 injectors with a wide duty cycle range for the injectors.
Your problems are not unusual. I am sure that all will be sorted tomorrow.
I am going to check MSD’s site for the installation instructions for your system.
Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or click Contact Support at the bottom of the page.











